Everything you need to know for 2 or 3 days in Cádiz

There are so many things to see and do in Cádiz we usually recommend at least 2 or 3 nights in the city whether visiting on a short break or as as part of a broader tour of the province Cadiz – the Province of Light  or our two-week tour of Andalucía Discover Andalucia. Here’s our guide covering all the Cádiz highlights…

Founded by the Phoenicians in 1100 BC, Cádiz is the oldest city in Western Europe. Built on a peninsula in the southwest corner of Andalucia, its rounded shape combined with its astonishing light and clarity of the air give it the nickname ‘La Tacita de Plata’ – The Little Silver Cup.

Still a working port, the Romans revelled in it, Sir Francis Drake “singed the King of Spain’s beard” here and the Battle of Trafalgar was fought just nearby. Christopher Columbus set sail from here on both of his voyages of discovery, making it truly the gateway to the Americas.

Without any headline, ‘bucket-list’ attractions, the main appeal of Cadiz is its charm and relaxed pace, and the endearing hospitality and generosity of the people, all found in its maze of narrow, intimate streets opening out into little, busy squares with bars serving “pescaito frito” (little fried fish) and manzanilla, reminding you that not much has changed in recent centuries.

The province beyond is a treasure-trove with one of Spain’s best (and least exploited) coastlines as well as the Grazalema mountains and the famous ‘Pueblos Blancos’ – not to mention the Sherry Triangle of Jerez, Sanlucar and Puerto de Santa María.

The whole area has a rich heritage with Phoenicians, Romans, Visigoths and Moors all leaving their traces in the towns and cities – and even on the beaches!

Cádiz Highlights – 10 things to see and do in Cádiz City

• The Cathedral
• The Tavira Tower
• El Museo de Cádiz
• Hospital de la Mujeres
• Iglesia de San Felipe Neri
• The Central Market and La Plaza de las Flores
• Playa La Caleta
• Parque Genoves
• Plaza San Juan de Dios
• Carnavales
• Take a ferry across the bay!

Things to See and Do in Cádiz Province – Out and About

• The Sherry Triangle – Jerez, Sanlucar & Puerto de Santa María
• La Costa de La Luz – from Barrosa to Tarifa
• The Natural Parks – Doñana, Grazalema & Alcornocales
• Los Pueblos Blancos – The White Towns – Arcos, Vejer Medina and beyond…

Practicalities – Frequently asked questions about things to see and do in Cádiz

• How to get to Cádiz?
• When to go to Cádiz?
• How long to stay in Cádiz?
• What to eat in Cádiz?
• What to buy in Cádiz?

The Cathedral

Glistening dome – America´s gold

With its magnificent golden dome that glistens from afar, the Catedral de la Santa Cruz of Cadiz was 116 years in the making. Begun in Baroque style in 1718 and finished off in Neo Classical, it was known as the Cathedral of the Americas, because it was built with money from the trade between Spain and America.

The intricately carved choirstalls are works of art in themselves and in the crypt, made of oyster stone, lies the tomb of the great composer, native to Cadiz, Manuel de Falla (1876 – 1946).

You can climb the bell tower for a spectacular view over the cathedral roof of the city and the bay.

The Tavira Tower

An unmissable experience

In its heyday, Cadiz was famous for its watch towers which were used to alert people when ships were arriving from the New World. One hundred and thirty-three are still standing, the tallest being Tavira, forty-five metres above sea level. Climb the one hundred and seventy three steps for a view that must not be missed. Inside, it has a “camera obscura” (a pin-hole camera) which gives you a 360-degree tour of the city with images in motion and real-time.

El Museo de Cadiz – The Cadiz Museum

In the old part of town, in the handsome Plaza de Mina, the Cadiz Museum is divided into three sections – archaeology, fine arts and ethnography. The highlights are the two Phoenician marble sarcophagi (only ten left in the world) and paintings by Zurburan, Murillo and Rubens.

Hospital de Las Mujeres

This C18th convent has a grand stairway, a beautiful patio and chapel, containing El Greco’s famous “Extasis de San Francisco”.

The composition used in the façade is a clear example of Cádiz civil architecture of that time.

Iglesia de San Felipe Neri

This C17th century church, elliptical in shape and classic in design, is where Spain’s first liberal constitution was proclaimed in 1812.

The walls are filled with plaques presented by other nations to recognise the event.

The Central Market and La Plaza de las Flores

Opened in 1937, the Central Market (Plaza de Abastos) is the oldest indoor market in Spain. Though it has been remodelled, it is well worth a visit for the amazing variety of fish and seafood alone. Great for local atmosphere as is the nearby Plaza de Las Flores (flower market) with plenty of bars where you can enjoy tapas and a “fino” in the sunshine.

Playa La Caleta

The lovely La Caleta beach, featured in the James Bond film, “Die Another Day”, is guarded by two castles, Santa Catalina and San Sebastian. A perfect place to sit and watch the sun go down.

Parque Genoves

Between the sea and the old part oCadiz, not far from the Playa La Caleta, this historic, botanical garden dates back to C18th. A delight to wander through, it has over one hundred species of treesfrom all over the world, including the Canarian Drago Milenario.

Plaza San Juan de Dios

The most emblematic square in Cadiz, the centre of city life! Dating back to the C16th, opening onto the harbour and the Atlantic, it houses a fascinating collection of buildings, presided by the Town Hall. Well worth sitting at one of its cafes and soaking up the scene.

Carnavales

The people of Cadiz, “Gaditanos”, are well known for their sense of humour – even their flamenco, called “alegrias” is cheerful and optimistic. It is no surprise then thathey lay on one of the best carnivals in Spain. Usually falling in February, it is eleven days of fancy dress, colour, music and singing, eating and drinking, laughter and fun! Even under the dictatorship, it was the only carnival Franco failed to suppress. Come and try it out!

Ferry across the bay!

To Rota or Puerto de Santa María

Cadiz Ferry

The city’s public transport system includes regular ferries across the bay to Puerto de Santa María and Rota.

Not only great way to get a different perspective on the bay, the bridges and the city, and to see the fascinating diversity of seacraft for the Port of Cádiz and the American naval base near Rota, but also a chance to explore these two lively seaside towns, try out the beaches or enjoy the local seafood!

The Sherry Triangle

Sherry, a wine truly unique in the world, is exclusively produced in the wine growing region of Jerez – a triangle of land, made up of the towns of Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlucar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa Maria.

Jerez de La Frontera

Sherry, horses and flamenco

Located 30kms inland from Cadiz, Jerez de la Frontera or simply ‘Jerez’ is famous worldwide for its sherry and brandy production. Its name is derived from the Arabic word “Sherish” from which the name of its fortified wine, sherry, was also taken.

The Jerez “bodegas” – Tio Pepe, Gonzalez Byass, Lustau etc – are quite enormous yet still integrated in the centre of the town. Most offer guided tours to those interested in tasting this special tipple and to learn about the unique ‘Solera’ system by which it is made.

But it is not only about wine in Jerez. Fine horses, flamenco music,  food and heritage make this city one of the most prosperous and interesting Andalucia.

The daily show at the Real Escuela Andaluza del Arte Ecuestre is not to be missed with the finest horses, and horsemanship to be found anywhere in Europe.

The town, home of the legendary Lola Flores, is also a major centre for Flamenco music and culture, with several ‘Tabancos’ (bars) and ‘Peñas’ (clubs) offering regular shows as well as festivals throughout the summer months celebrating all aspects of Flamenco culture.

Jerez Catedral, which only rose to that status in 1980, dates from the 17th century and offers an interesting and attractive mix but it’s the Alcazar (the Moorish palace / fortress) which should not be missed. Inside you’ll find a well-preserved mosque, Arab baths, water deposit and olive press, all dating back to the Moorish era, as well as the Baroque Palace of Villavicencio, built in 1664, which houses a camera oscura as well as a 19th century pharmacy.

One of the main attractions of Jerez is its proximity to Cádiz city, the beaches of Rota and Sanlucar and the Doñana National Park – all within 30 minutes’ drive – but once there you’ll fall in love with its charming old town, with its wide streets, squares and magnificent rows of jacaranda trees, and its inviting, authentic, local restaurants, for all tastes and budgets, with lively terraces to make the most of the Andalucian warmth.

Sanlucar de Barrameda

Manzanilla wine in the mouth of the Guadalquivir

The reason why most people come here, apart from the lovely beaches, is to see the huge bodegas where the dry “manzanilla” wine, a very close relative of sherry, is produced.

But Sanlucar de Barrameda offers much more than wine. Located on the left bank of the Guadalquivir river´s mouth visitors can take a short boat trip across the river, to visit the Doñana Natural Park , one of Europe’s most important wetland reserves, attracting thousands of European and African birds. There are two indigenous breeds of horse, one, the “Retuertas”, dating back to 1000 BC and Iberian lynx too. The Salinas (salt beds) and pine forest of Monte Algaida are worth a visit too.

But to wander round old Sanlúcar, to visit its lively market and main square with restaurants set around the fountain, to eat the freshest of fish and the famous prawns from here and just to be in an authentic Andalucian town, still untouched by mass tourism, is perhaps the most rewarding.

El Puerto de Santa Maria

A legendary bodega, great seafood and much more

Bodegas Osborne, creator of the legendary black bull logo, was founded here and still reigns along with several other family run sherry bodegas, where visits can be arranged.

Along with traditional bars and restaurants famous for serving great (and abundant!)  seafood, El Puerto has some excellent upmarket options too, including Angel Leon’s Aponiente which has 3 Michelin Stars.

The town, an  easy trip from Cadiz by bus, train or ferry,  has some fine beaches, one of Andalucia’s most important bullrings and a museum dedicated to the Spanish poet, Rafael Alberti. There’s also a yachting marina, Puerto Sherry, with its own beach and a string of restaurants offering fine views across the bay (and surprisingly reasonable prices).

Rota

Known throughout Spain for its American Naval base, Rota is sometimes overlooked by tourists – a fact that makes it all the more attractive!

The town itself has two excellent beaches – Costilla and Rompidillo – and a nice old town with a 13th century castle. Such tourism as there is is mostly Andalucían, making this a very authentic corner of Cádiz province.

La Costa de La Luz

Vejer de La Frontera

Moorish heritage in a white horizon

One of the highlights of any visit to the Costa de la Luz, Vejer de la Frontera is one of the best preserved of the Arab towns which for five centuries used to form a strategic part of the Moorish defences.

Set on a hilltop, Vejer enjoys dramatic views across the rolling countryside to the Sierras and the Natural Park of the Alcornocales to one side and towards the straights of Gibraltar on the other; by night one can often see the twinkling lights of the bay of Tangiers in the distance. Just 9km away there is the beach of Playa del Palmar just near the historic Cabo de Trafalgar.

Cabo de Trafalgar – The Cape of Trafalgar

A name for the history books

The great battle of Trafalgar took place here, at the northernmost point of the straits of Gibraltar, on 21st October 1805. Nelson famously said the famous words “England expects every man to do his duty”  and saw off the French/Spanish fleet, but in doing so lost his own life. Trafalgar Square in London is, of course, named after this Spanish cape.

As with most capes there’s not that much to see, barring  the lighthouse and a lot of water, but Caños de Mecca a little further along has become famous for its ‘hippy-chic’vibes and is a wonderful place to watch the sunset.  Palmar de Vejer, a family resort just to the north, has an excellent beach.

Tarifa

At the edge of the Continent

Gateway to Africa, strategically located at the narrowest point of the straits of Gibraltar and presided over by its one-thousand-year-old castle, Tarifa was the first Spanish town to be taken by the Moors in 711.

Now, the windsurfing capital of Europe with some spectacular, windswept beaches, what makes a visit worthwhile is the mesmerizing view from here (particularly at sunset) of the peaks of Africa, just eight miles across the water. There are several ferries and jetfoils to Tangiers (1 hr.30 mins or less) making a day trip feasible.

Bolonia – Baelo Claudia

One of our favourite beaches in all of Spain, Playa de Bolonia was once similarly favoured by the Romans.

Playa Bolonia  a stunning beach with clear waters and a large dune at one end has the added attraction that the fascinating ruins of the Roman city of Baelo Claudia, open to the public, are set right beside the sands.

You can see the ruins from the walkway by the beach but for a more in-depth visit there’s an excellent new visitor’s centre – click here for opening times and other details.

Playa de La Barrosa and Sancti Petri

Golden sand testimony of Phoenician times

An eight kilometre stretch of golden sand, backed by dunes and cliffs, the fantastic Playa Barrosa, east of Chiclana, is quite rightly, often voted as one of Spain’s best beaches.

At any time of year, it is perfect for a walk and to watch the sunset with a leisurely drink at one of its bars and restaurants, looking out to the tiny island and C15th castle of Sancti Petri.

The castle, built over a Phoenician temple to the god, Melkart (Hercules), later converted into a shrine by the Romans, was visited by Hannibal and Caesar. Statues and artefacts from here are housed in the Cadiz Museum.

Now, events take place here and boat trips to the island operate from the beach in the warmer months.

The Natural Parks

The Sierra de Grazalema

In the north east of the province of Cadiz, dotted with white mountain villages, this is one of the greenest and most beautiful parts of Andalucia, with the town of Grazalema having the highest measured rainfall in Spain. From pastoral river valleys to precipitous gorges and rocky summits, it is a paradise for walkers and climbers, nature lovers, birdwatchers and fishermen.

Parque Natural Los Alcornocales

South of the Sierra de Grazalema, its rugged, yet sometimes, rolling landscape, houses Spain’s most extensive cork oak woodlands. There are plenty of walks in the park as well as opportunities for cycling, horse riding and donkey trips.

Parque Nacional de Coto de Doñana

The Doñana National Park, which contains some of Europe’s most important wetlands, is mostly in the provinces of Huelva and Sevilla, but part of it falls in Cadiz.

It is a vital refuge for endangered species such as the Spanish imperial eagle and the Iberian lynx. It is also a crucial habitat and breeding ground for millions of other birds.

The park is closed to traffic but there are several companies based in Sanlucar offering visits to the park by 4×4 minibus (recommended) or kayak (a good day out but you see little of the park).

Los Pueblos Blancos – The White Towns

There are officially nineteen “white towns” in the Sierra of Cadiz, taking their name from their whitewashed houses which contrast dazzlingly with the magnificent surrounding landscape.

All steeped in history, going back 250.000 years, each has its own story and all the perfect combination of culture and nature, they make a fascinating journey through this special part of Andalucia. With limited time, however, it is hard to make a choice of which to visit! Here are a few ideas.

Arcos de La Frontera

Gateway to the ‘Pueblos Blancos’

At the gateway to “los pueblos blancos”, in a spectacular setting, perched on the edge of a sheer cliff above the Rio Guadalete with stunning views of the surrounding countryside, Arcos is perhaps the most dramatically positioned of the white towns and is certainly its largest.

With delightful narrow, winding streets, it is from the main square, the Plaza del Cabildo, where you can view this panorama and where you will find the gothic/baroque Basilica Menor de Santa Maria de la Asuncion, one of Andalucia’s loveliest churches, built on the site of a mosque.

A visit would not be complete without visiting the C17th Palacio de Mayorazgo (which houses exhibitions), the C14th Iglesia de San Pedro, the Mirador de Abades (another viewpoint) and the C17th Convento de las Mercedarias where you can buy cakes and pastries prepared by the nuns through a small window.

Medina Sidonia

3000 years of history

Not in the list of the “white towns”, but this charming, unspoilt, hilltop town with more than 3000 years of history remains one of our firm favourites.

Founded by the Phoenicians, followed by the Romans and Muslims, it became one of Spain’s most important ducal seats in the 15th century, producing the admiral who led the Spanish Armada. The title of the Duque de Medina Sidonia was bestowed upon the family of Guzman El Bueno and until fairly recently, his direct descendant and holder of the title was the controversial socialist, known as the Red Duchess, who stood out against Franco.

Wandering through its narrow, cobbled streets flanked by rows of “reja” (wrought iron grilles) fronted houses and noble mansions, is a lesson in the history of Andalucia – the remarkable Roman sewers (1scentury AD) the Islamic walls, the Medieval castle, the fine Gothic church of Santa Maria de la Coronada, the Visiogothic hermitage of Santos Martires, the C17th Convento de las Descalzas, the delightful Plaza de Espana and the Town Hall with its fine Plateresque façade…

Walk through the magnificent Moorish horseshoe arch “La Puerta de La Pastora” for a memorable view of the surrounding countryside and savour one of the town’s delicate pastries “alfafar de Medina”and reflect.

Grazalema

At the heart of the Sierra

Nestling in a valley, towered over by the giant rock, Penon Grande, in the stunningly beautiful Sierra de Grazalema natural park (declared a biosphere reserve by UNESCO), with its rugged mountains, deep gorges and lush forests, Grazalema is quite rightly named one of Spain’s prettiest villages.

Dating back to prehistoric times, occupied by the Romans (it even has an intact Roman road leading to its centre) and Arabs (Berbers) and Christians, it’s a village of churches and fountains (eleven in all!), narrow cobbled streets, bright flower filled balconies and spectacular views.

At one time the hub of the textile industry in the area, it still prides itself on its woollen blankets and shawls made at the local textile factory and displayed at the textile museum in the village.

Well known for its excellent goat’s cheese “queso cabra Payoyo” and for its mountain cuisine of tasty, slow cooked stews and game dishes, you certainly won’t feel cold or go hungry here!

A paradise for walkers and nature lovers and bird watchers (210 bird species have been registered here), it inevitably sees its fair share of visitors, but once night falls, the peace and quiet is magical.

Setenil de Las Bodegas

This must be one of the most striking villages ever, not just in Cadiz, but anywhere! In the north- eastern corner of the province, bordering with Malaga, with the Rio Trejo running through, it is deep within a ravine with huge boulders that overhang the pretty white houses, built into the rock. A renowned Cadiz poet and writer described it as: “One of the most astonishing villages in Andalucia, something like an architectural nightmare, a geological fright, where you come across habitable spaces excavated out of the rock itself, like troglodytes or birds, they live beneath immense granite ledges or what seems like an urban labyrinth”. Surrounded by olive groves, it once had a thriving wine trade, but is now known for its excellent olive oil and almonds and tourism. It certainly attracts the crowds!

Wander its streets by the river, Calle Cuevas del Sol (the sunny side) and Calle de la Sombra (the shady side) to get a real feeling of what living here in a cave is like. Walk up to the ruins of the C13thNazari castle and climb the Homage Tower to get the full panorama of this fascinating town.

Stop off at la Plaza de Andalucia on the way down to try the local dish “Sopa Cortijera”, a wild asparagus soup.

Nearby, and well worth a visit are the Roman ruins (complete with amphitheatre) of Acinipo, at one time inhabited by more than 5000 people. Open to the public but closed on Mondays.

Olvera

A spectacular drive following the river in the heart of the canyon from Setenil de las Bodegas takes you to Olvera, another wonderful “pueblo blanco”.

In an incomparable setting, with olive groves all around, it is crowned by its Arab fortress (climb up to the rooftop terrace for astounding views) and its imposing C19th Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la Encarnacion, built on the site of a mosque. From the church, unique for its size and shape, there is a beautiful viewpoint where you can see the whole town, the valley beyond and the mountains ahead towards Antequera.

Visit the La Cilla Museum (at one time the women’s prison), now housing the tourist office and the “El Saldo” olive mill which has been producing olive oil since 1715!

For those looking for a bit of exercise, you can cycle or walk along the Via Verde (38 kms), along an old, abandoned railway track.

Los Alcornocales

Castellar de La Frontera

Gateway to the Alcornocales Nature Park

Perched dramatically high on a hilltop, the fortress village of Castellar de la Frontera, commanding spectacular views of the Guadarranque reservoir, the bay of Algeciras, the Rock of Gibraltar and on a clear day the Atlas Mountains of Africa, dates back to the Bronze Age.

Built on slopes of cork oak forests in the unique Alcornocales Natural Park, it maintains its medieval atmosphere with its Moorish castle, its narrow cobbled streets and whitewashed houses.

You certainly feel that you are in a different world here, far away from the “madding crowds”, though there is a cosy bar and a couple of restaurants.

Flamenco – one of the essential things to see and do in Cádiz

As in most of Andalucian cities, there is a wide variety of tablaos and tabancos (dance floors where flamenco is performed) in Cádiz, and especially in Jerez, some with twice or even thrice nightly shows of usually about an hour long. The performers change regularly. There’s much debate over which is the most authentic flamenco experience but in some part it’s tourism that keeps this fascinating art form alive – so we say ‘go with the flow’!

Taking it easy in Cádiz

Our top tip for getting the most out of your visit

Cádiz’s such an exciting city with so much to see and do whilst at the same time having one of the hottest climates in Europe – which can easily be an exhausting combination!

We recommend you ‘go native’ and take time and head indoors for a decent rest in the hottest hours of the day.

This is especially true in the summer but will help you adjust to the local rhythms at any time of the year. It’s easy to burn out and be heading to bed before the locals have come out to play of an evening, and you really don’t want to miss the genuine buzz of Cádiz´s tapas bar!